Late autumn features the noisiest day of the year on a ranch. To the north the black cows will be bawling; to the south the reds. Some of their voices will be muffled, some so loud I will swear they are in the house with us, their bellows rattling across the stone tiles in the kitchen and bouncing up to the rafters. It’s a sad day for them, a pensive one for us — the calves will be going to...
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